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	<title>Home Improvement Ideas From Let Me Build It! &#187; Laying your own block paving</title>
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	<link>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk</link>
	<description>Step by step guide to building</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 12:12:11 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<item>
		<title>Stihl TS400 14&#8243; Portable 2 stroke Petrol Cutter</title>
		<link>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/stihl-ts400-14-portable-2-stroke-petrol-cutter/</link>
		<comments>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/stihl-ts400-14-portable-2-stroke-petrol-cutter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Jan 2006 13:28:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>letmebuildit</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Laying your own block paving]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/28/stihl-ts400-14-portable-2-stroke-petrol-cutter/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Stihl TS400 14&#8243; Portable Petrol saw is an indispensable tool for the rapid cutting of all block paving gardening or landscaping products, with a cutting wheel diameter of 14&#8243;/35cm it will cut through steel, concrete or rock to a maximum cutting depth of 100mm. The Stihl TS400 is compact and lightweight at only 8.9kg [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src='/files/archive/ts400.jpg' alt='Stihl TS 400 Portable Petrol saw' /></p>
<p>The Stihl TS400 14&#8243; Portable Petrol saw is an indispensable tool for the rapid cutting of all block paving gardening or landscaping products, with a cutting wheel diameter of 14&#8243;/35cm it will cut through steel, concrete or rock to a maximum cutting depth of 100mm. The Stihl TS400 is compact and lightweight at only 8.9kg making it suitable for all civil engineering, building or road construction and even the emergency rescue services.</p>
<p><strong>Features of The Stihl TS400</strong></p>
<ol>
2 stroke 64cc engine<br />
Decompression valve for easy starting<br />
 built in water dust suppression<br />
Power output 4.4kW<br />
 Weight 8.9Kg</ol>
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		<slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Stihl TS760 Disc Cutting Saw</title>
		<link>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/stihl-ts760-disc-cutting-saw/</link>
		<comments>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/stihl-ts760-disc-cutting-saw/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2005 17:12:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>letmebuildit</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Laying your own block paving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tools required for block paving]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/27/stihl-ts760-disc-cutting-saw/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For the ultimate in a cutting saw when laying block paving, there is no better manufacturer than Stihl for making power tools that are not only of great build quality but easy to use and handle too. This Stihl TS760 has the same size cutting blade as the Partner K700 at 14&#8243;, with the same [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src='/files/archive/stihl.jpg' alt='stihl cutting saw' /><br />
<br />For the ultimate in a cutting saw when <a href="http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/18/step-by-step-guide-on-how-to-lay-block-paving-3/">laying block paving</a>, there is no better manufacturer than Stihl for making power tools that are not only of great build quality but easy to use and handle too. This Stihl TS760 has the same size cutting blade as the <a href="http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/26/partner-k700-active-iii-350mm-saw/">Partner K700</a> at 14&#8243;, with the same cutting depth of 125mm, but has a 6.5hp petrol engine. </p>
<p>Not only will the Stihl TS760 cut block paving it can also be used to cut steel, concrete, asphalt, rock and other materials.  It&#8217;s filtration system is efficient at ensuring that the engine receives the same fuel to air ratio at all times, even when the filter becomes dirty the Stihl maintains the great performance.  The Stihl has all the added features that you would expect from this quality power tool manufacturer and it has an electronic ignition and an anti vibration system. It&#8217;s well worth the extra money for the Stihl brand.</p>
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		<slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Partner K700 Active III 350mm Saw</title>
		<link>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/partner-k700-active-iii-350mm-saw/</link>
		<comments>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/partner-k700-active-iii-350mm-saw/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2005 13:12:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>letmebuildit</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Laying your own block paving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tools required for block paving]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/26/partner-k700-active-iii-350mm-saw/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When laying block paving, it makes the job all the easier if you have a good disc cutting saw. For the best performance and power get one with a 2 stroke engine. The Partner K700 Active III is a good choice and retailing out at around Â£500, for a builder is a worthwhile investment. If [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src='/files/archive/partnerK700.jpg' alt='partner k700 Active III' /><br />
<br />
When <a href="http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/18/step-by-step-guide-on-how-to-lay-block-paving-3/">laying block paving</a>, it makes the job all the easier if you have a good disc cutting saw. For the best performance and power get one with a 2 stroke engine. The Partner K700 Active III is a good choice and retailing out at around Â£500, for a builder is a worthwhile investment. If you are going to lay your block paving yourself we would recommend hiring one. </p>
<p>The Partner K700 Active III is very durable and reliable and incorporates the Active Air Filtration system which makes it efficient, increasing the filter life up to 5 times. The filtration system also helps it keep going for long periods of time without needing servicing. Itâ€™s design has made it a favourite piece of equipment in the trade and for contractors and hire companies alike.</p>
<p>It has a 2 stroke air cooled engine, giving 4.8hp, and itâ€™s fuel tank, which has a fuel indicator will hold up to 0.70 litres. The general weight of the Partner K700 Active III is 9.3kg which is without the fuel or the blade. The blade size is 14â€? or 350mm and will cut to a depth of 5â€? or 125mm. We would recommend investing in a diamond edge cutting blade for quality and durability. The blade is all protected with the easily adjustable blade guard. The great part about the Partner K700 is the Easy Start function which makes it a quick task to get this saw going. </p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>16</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Installing a block paved manhole cover</title>
		<link>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/installing-a-block-paved-manhole-cover/</link>
		<comments>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/installing-a-block-paved-manhole-cover/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Nov 2005 20:28:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>letmebuildit</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Laying your own block paving]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/25/installing-a-block-paved-manhole-cover/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hot dipped galvanised recessed manhole covers can be used to hide existing manholes, block paving is fitted inside to continue the pattern of the surrounding paving. The cover is bedded into place using a 3:1 mixture of sand and cement making sure its at the correct height and fall, this can be acheved by using [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hot dipped galvanised recessed manhole covers can be used to hide existing manholes, block paving is fitted inside to continue the pattern of the surrounding paving. </p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/blockpavedmanholecover.jpg' alt='Hot dipped galvanised recessed manhole covers can be used to hide existing manholes' /></p>
<p>The cover is bedded into place using a 3:1 mixture of sand and cement making sure its at the correct height and fall, this can be acheved by using a tight string line from one side of the drive to the other and adjust the height to suite, haunch both the inside and outside of the manhole to hold it in place</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover.jpg' alt='The cover must be bedded using a 3:1 mixture of sand and cement making sure its at the correct height and fall' /></p>
<p>The recessed cover showing the main area of the drive now completed</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover1.jpg' alt='The recessed cover showing the main area of the drive now completed' /></p>
<p>A 3:1 mix of sand and cement to form a bed for the paviors inside the manhole cover</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover2.jpg' alt='A 3:1 mix of sand and cement to form a bed for the paviors inside the manhole cover' /></p>
<p>Cover the total area of the manhole cover and lightly compact using a steel trowel</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover9.jpg' alt='screed the total area making sure its perfectly flat' /></p>
<p>Using a notched piece of wood as a guide screed the total area making sure its perfectly flat </p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover3.jpg' alt='Using a notched piece of wood as a guide screed the total area making sure its perfectly flat' /></p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover10.jpg' alt='screed the total area making sure its perfectly flat' /></p>
<p>The semi dry cement bed has been screeded to the correct height ready to lay the paviors</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover4.jpg' alt='The semi dry bed has been screeded to the correct height ready to lay the paviors' /></p>
<p>Use a straight edge or piece of timber to line up the block with the surrounding laying pattern and start to place the full blocks into position</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover5.jpg' alt='Use a straight edge or piece of timber to line up the block with the surrounding laying pattern' /></p>
<p>Mark and cut each of the pieces</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover6.jpg' alt='Mark and cut each of the pieces' /></p>
<p>The manhole cover with all the cut blocks in place</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover7.jpg' alt='The manhole cover with all the cut blocks in place' /></p>
<p>Brush kiln dried sand over the blocks and tap lightly on the top of the blocks using a block of timber and lump hammer to vibrate the sand into position, the manhole lid was removed from the frame to put the sand in place as extreme care should be taken to avoid any sand getting in between the cover and the frame</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/manholecover8.jpg' alt='Brush kiln dried sand over the blocks and tap lightly on the top of the blocks using a block of timber and lump hammer to vibrate the sand into position' /></p>
<p>The finished manhole cover is now placed in position, once its completed all you see in the 4 corners are the heavy gauge lifting eyes to accept standard profile lifting keys which are used to lift out the cover</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/finishedmanholecover.jpg' alt='The finished manhole cover is now placed in position' /></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Tools and materials required to lay block paving</title>
		<link>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/tools-you-will-need/</link>
		<comments>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/tools-you-will-need/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Nov 2005 16:53:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>letmebuildit</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Laying your own block paving]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/19/tools-you-will-need/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Available from most hire shops vibrating plate compactor 2 stroke saw with diamond blade block splitter steel tramel/screeding rails or timber laths 1&#8243; (4 metre long galvanised steel electrical duct is ideal and is available from most electrical suppliers) steel float spade wheel barrow Protective clothing Before using any plant or machinery always read the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Available from most hire shops</strong><br />
vibrating plate compactor<br />
<a href="http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/27/stihl-ts760-disc-cutting-saw/">2 stroke saw with diamond blade</a><br />
block splitter</p>
<p>steel tramel/screeding rails or timber laths 1&#8243; (4 metre long galvanised steel electrical duct is ideal and is available from most electrical suppliers)<br />
steel float<br />
spade<br />
wheel barrow</p>
<p><strong>Protective clothing</strong><br />
Before using any plant or machinery always read the safty instructions and always wear protective clothing<br />
gloves to protect your hands<br />
dust mask to prevent dust from being inhaled<br />
ear protectors to protect your ears</p>
<p>chalk, felt tip pen or pencil for marking any cuts<br />
tape measure<br />
spirit level<br />
straight edge either aluminim or timber<br />
string line<br />
stiff brush </p>
<p><strong>Skip hire and waste disposal</strong><br />
A 4 cube skip will take approx 4 &#8211; 5 ton<br />
A 8 cube skip will take approx 8 &#8211; 9 ton</p>
<p>As a guide the average sized drive on a semi detached or detached house is between 35 &#8211; 55 square metres so you will need at least 1 large and 1 small skip to remove an existing drive what is 40 square metres. This will also depend how you <a href="http://www.better-homes-and-gardens.com/filling-a-skip.htm">fill a skip</a> and how tight you manage to place everything, if you have large voids between things it will be filled in no time and you will have to get it replaced with another at a cost of between Â£125 &#8211; Â£140</p>
<p><strong>Materials</strong><br />
your choice of blocks, choose from a wide variety of colours and styles with blocks manufactured by Marshalls Bradstone and Plaspave all available for delivery from your local builders merchants</p>
<p>Zone 2 grit sand<br />
1 ton will cover approx 10 square metres at 50mm deep</p>
<p>MOT type 1 sub-base stone material<br />
1 ton will cover approx 5 square metres at 100mm deep</p>
<p>jointing sand/kiln dried sand<br />
1 bag will cover approx 10 &#8211; 15 square metres</p>
<p>manhole cover (if required)<br />
cement (as required)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Step by step guide on how to lay block paving</title>
		<link>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/step-by-step-guide-on-how-to-lay-block-paving-3/</link>
		<comments>http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/step-by-step-guide-on-how-to-lay-block-paving-3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Nov 2005 16:13:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>letmebuildit</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Laying your own block paving]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.letmebuildit.co.uk/18/step-by-step-guide-on-how-to-lay-block-paving-3/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Compacting the hardcore Once you have removed the existing drive patio or path and excavated to a minimum depth of 200mm (100mm hardcore, 50mm sand, 50 mm block) your hardcore needs to be compacted to give a stable sub base for your new block paving Fixing a firm edge restraint Any area of block paving [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Compacting  the hardcore</strong><br />
Once you have removed the existing drive patio or path and excavated to a minimum depth of 200mm (100mm hardcore, 50mm sand, 50 mm block) your hardcore needs to be compacted to give a stable sub base for your new block paving</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/compacthardcore.jpg' alt='compact the hardcore using a plate vibrator' /></p>
<p><strong>Fixing  a firm edge restraint</strong><br />
Any area of block paving must be surrounded by a firm edge restraint to prevent the blocks and the sand on which they are laid from creeping, either the house walls, fence base panel or new edgings along any side which require the paving to be held in place.</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/edgerestraint.jpg' alt='fix the block pave edging' /></p>
<p>Using a tight string line to keep the front edge of the edging block in a straight line, the blocks are laid on a semi dry mix of 3 parts sand to 1 part cement and hauched front and back to hold in place</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/blockpavededging.jpg' alt='closeup of the block paved edging' /></p>
<p><strong>Zone 2 grit sand</strong><br />
Zone 2 grit sand is layed to the entire area approx 30mm higher than the finished height to allow for compaction. Different parts of the country have different grades of sand and as a rule of thumb get the coarse grit sand rather than a fine grain sand</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/gritsand.jpg' alt='zone 2 grit sand' /></p>
<p>Using a spade level the sand roughly to the correct height</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/levelsand.jpg' alt='level the grit sand' /></p>
<p>Continue over the toal area untill you have covered all the hardcore</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/levelgritsand.jpg' alt='level the zone 2 grit sand' /></p>
<p>As a rough guide 1 ton of sand will cover approx 10 square metres at 50mm deep</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/zone2sand.jpg' alt='total area covered with sand' /></p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/zone2gritsand.jpg' alt='zone 2 grit sand to the total area' /></p>
<p><strong>Compact the grit sand</strong><br />
Once you have filled the entire area with sand this needs to be compacted with your vibrating plate, you will see the lines and your footprints going less and less after going over your sand 2 &#8211; 3 times. It&#8217;s advisable to have your sand harder and higher than to leave any low soft spots</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/compactgritsand.jpg' alt='compact the zone 2 grit sand' /></p>
<p><strong>Getting the correct finished height</strong><br />
Using a block as a guide push back and forwards and down into the sand until it is 5mm higher than the finished height to allow for the final compaction</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/correctheight.jpg' alt='getting the right height for the block paving' /></p>
<p><strong>Steel poles for a perfectly flat finish</strong><br />
Use a tight string line as a guide cut a channel in your sand to allow the 18mm steel poles to sit, they can be bedded up or down to the required height. The top of the screeding pole is the underneath face of your block so allow 55mm to the finished height</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/steelpoles.jpg' alt='using steel poles for a flat finish' /></p>
<p>Using a tight string line to get the pole to the correct finished height prior to screeding, check the poles for being level or falling towards any drains, 1:60 fall is required, that&#8217;s 1&#8243; in height to 60&#8243; in length</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/steelpoles2.jpg' alt='check for the correct fall using a level' /></p>
<p>The string line can be held in place either by using 2 &#8211; 3 blocks or alternatively you can use steel road pins</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/stringline.jpg' alt='use a string line to make sure its straight' /></p>
<p><strong>Screeding the sand</strong><br />
Once your steel poles are in place you can begin to screed the sand to the correct height prior to laying your blocks. When finished remove the poles and fill with sand using a steel trowel to give a smooth flat finish</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/screedsand.jpg' alt='screed the sand to the correct height prior to laying your blocks' /></p>
<p><strong>Laying the block paving</strong><br />
The block can be laid either square to the house or on a 45 degree angle. On this drive the full blocks started at the front corner of the house working towards to boundary edge restraint. It was done this way so full blocks showed all round the house and any cuts were only visible at the garden side of the drive</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/layblockpaving.jpg' alt='The block can be laid either square to the house or on a 45 degree angle' /></p>
<p>The main area of the blockwork completed showing the border, the next step is the cut blocks</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/blockpaving.jpg' alt='The main area of the blockwork completed showing the border,' /></p>
<p><strong>Cut in the edges</strong><br />
When you have completed the laying of your full blocks you need to cut in the edges, this can be completed either using a 2 stroke brick saw or a block splitter. These can be hired from your local hire shop. Using a straight edge or string line mark the width of the border using a block as a guide and mark a line onto the full block</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/border.jpg' alt='When you have completed the laying of your full blocks you need to cut in the edges' /></p>
<p>Remove the marked block and place on the block splitter lining up the marks with the blade of the splitter</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/blocksplitter.jpg' alt='remove the marked block and place on the block splitter ' /></p>
<p>With a sharp pull down the block splitter will cut the block</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/probstblocksplitter.jpg' alt='using a block splitter to cut block paving' /></p>
<p>Alternatively you can use a 2 stroke brick cutter with a diamond blade, this can be very noisy and dusty so make sure you wear a dust mask and ear protectors</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/2strokebricksaw.jpg' alt='using a 2 stroke brick saw to cut block paving' /></p>
<p><strong>Finishing off</strong><br />
Kiln dried sand is brushed over the entire area making sure all the joints are full to the top. </p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/kilndriedsand.jpg' alt='Kiln dried sand is brushed over the entire area' /></p>
<p>The vibrating plate is run over the total area 2 to 3 times to ensure the blocks are fully bedded into place</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/compactblock.jpg' alt='compact the block paving using a vibrating plate' /></p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/compactblockpaving.jpg' alt='vibrating plate compactor to bed the block paving into place' /></p>
<p>Your new drive or patio is finished and ready for use</p>
<p>Close up detail of the straight border to the edge of the block paving</p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/straightborder.jpg' alt='closeup detail show straight border to the edge of the block paving' /></p>
<p>Curved border with edging detail </p>
<p><img src='/files/archive/curvedborder.jpg' alt='curved border edging detail' /></p>
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