Step by step guide on how to lay block paving
Compacting the hardcore
Once you have removed the existing drive patio or path and excavated to a minimum depth of 200mm (100mm hardcore, 50mm sand, 50 mm block) your hardcore needs to be compacted to give a stable sub base for your new block paving
Fixing a firm edge restraint
Any area of block paving must be surrounded by a firm edge restraint to prevent the blocks and the sand on which they are laid from creeping, either the house walls, fence base panel or new edgings along any side which require the paving to be held in place.
Using a tight string line to keep the front edge of the edging block in a straight line, the blocks are laid on a semi dry mix of 3 parts sand to 1 part cement and hauched front and back to hold in place
Zone 2 grit sand
Zone 2 grit sand is layed to the entire area approx 30mm higher than the finished height to allow for compaction. Different parts of the country have different grades of sand and as a rule of thumb get the coarse grit sand rather than a fine grain sand
Using a spade level the sand roughly to the correct height
Continue over the toal area untill you have covered all the hardcore
As a rough guide 1 ton of sand will cover approx 10 square metres at 50mm deep
Compact the grit sand
Once you have filled the entire area with sand this needs to be compacted with your vibrating plate, you will see the lines and your footprints going less and less after going over your sand 2 - 3 times. It’s advisable to have your sand harder and higher than to leave any low soft spots
Getting the correct finished height
Using a block as a guide push back and forwards and down into the sand until it is 5mm higher than the finished height to allow for the final compaction
Steel poles for a perfectly flat finish
Use a tight string line as a guide cut a channel in your sand to allow the 18mm steel poles to sit, they can be bedded up or down to the required height. The top of the screeding pole is the underneath face of your block so allow 55mm to the finished height
Using a tight string line to get the pole to the correct finished height prior to screeding, check the poles for being level or falling towards any drains, 1:60 fall is required, that’s 1″ in height to 60″ in length
The string line can be held in place either by using 2 - 3 blocks or alternatively you can use steel road pins
Screeding the sand
Once your steel poles are in place you can begin to screed the sand to the correct height prior to laying your blocks. When finished remove the poles and fill with sand using a steel trowel to give a smooth flat finish
Laying the block paving
The block can be laid either square to the house or on a 45 degree angle. On this drive the full blocks started at the front corner of the house working towards to boundary edge restraint. It was done this way so full blocks showed all round the house and any cuts were only visible at the garden side of the drive
The main area of the blockwork completed showing the border, the next step is the cut blocks
Cut in the edges
When you have completed the laying of your full blocks you need to cut in the edges, this can be completed either using a 2 stroke brick saw or a block splitter. These can be hired from your local hire shop. Using a straight edge or string line mark the width of the border using a block as a guide and mark a line onto the full block
Remove the marked block and place on the block splitter lining up the marks with the blade of the splitter
With a sharp pull down the block splitter will cut the block
Alternatively you can use a 2 stroke brick cutter with a diamond blade, this can be very noisy and dusty so make sure you wear a dust mask and ear protectors
Finishing off
Kiln dried sand is brushed over the entire area making sure all the joints are full to the top.
The vibrating plate is run over the total area 2 to 3 times to ensure the blocks are fully bedded into place
Your new drive or patio is finished and ready for use
Close up detail of the straight border to the edge of the block paving
Curved border with edging detail
November 13th, 2005 at 10:04 pm
Wow! What a really detailed guide to laying block paving. You certainly know your stuff. I’m going to have to get my husband to check this out when he comes in. The pictures are really helpful and its an easy to follow guide.
November 16th, 2005 at 8:26 pm
my husband has been searching for ages to find the information you have got listed on this site, thank you very much you have detailed the process from start to finish in a concise way that we both understand, he is block paving our existing drive and adding another area to park a second car on but it is grass at the moment, will it need gravel under the block paving on this grass area
November 17th, 2005 at 4:45 pm
Yes you do need a hardcore sub base for any block paving to allow water to drain away, you need to remove the existing turf and soil to a depth of at least 200mm to allow for 150mm well compacted hardcore, 50mm zone 2 grit sand and 50mm for your block paving
hope this helps
Mr Buildit
March 5th, 2007 at 8:52 pm
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March 11th, 2007 at 4:32 pm
Great work with this one, nicelly done!
March 14th, 2007 at 11:02 pm
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March 16th, 2007 at 3:11 am
Lovely, informative site, thanks
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May 28th, 2007 at 7:43 pm
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May 28th, 2007 at 9:52 pm
WOW ! Beatiful clay-paver brick driveway ! That’s classy ! Well done indeed ! and Informative website, I’ll refer it to some of my brick customers to see it too.