Home Improvement Ideas From Let Me Build It!

There are three basic types of bathroom furniture and the first thing to do when choosing what you need is to decide which of the types you prefer, modular, stand alone, or built in units.

Stand alone bathroom furniture does not have to be fixed in place and you can move it where and when you like. Vanity units can often be bought as cabinets that you can just slide into place without the need for fixings.

Modular units are similar to stand alone pieces but they have smooth sides and edges so that you can fix them together without leaving a gap in between. This gives a neater finish and avoids problems with cleaning those narrow gaps between the sections.

Built-in furniture is carefully designed to fit a particular space and is fixed to the wall so that it does not move. The lines are smoother and the whole thing is easier to maintain because there are no gaps. This is the most practical solution to fitting bathroom furniture but it will make a small bathroom feel even smaller.

Wooden bathroom furniture should be treated so that it is water resistant, and if the fittings are made of chipboard or MDF they must be properly sealed, including along the edges because once this type of board gets damp it will disintegrate and there is no way to reverse this.  It is not generally recommended to fit MDF or chipboard units into a bathroom if the edges need to be cut because no matter how well you seal the raw edges, the steam will eventually penetrate if you do not maintain the finish regularly.

Radiators are a necessary evil if you want to stay warm. As such, while we are glad to have them, we generally try to minimise their appearance in our rooms. This generally means painting them.

The first question to consider is what colour to use. You may choose to blend into your wall, but it is important to remember that light colours radiate more heat than dark.

The second is what type of paint to use. Again, it’s important to take into consideration what conducts heat the best. Gloss finishes radiate better than matt. They also take longer to dry, so plan your project accordingly.

Before you begin, you need to isolate your radiator and let it cool down. Be prepared for the radiator to be out of commission for at least 24 hours; applying paint to a warm radiator or trying to turn it back on too soon will ruin the finish.

If the radiator has been painted before, use sandpaper to key the surface of the old paint. Use a good quality paint that isn’t solvent-based (using a solvent-based paint will result in yellowing – important to avoid, especially if you’re using white). Your best option is to use a paint that is recommended for radiators.

Using a small (5 cm) paintbrush, apply the paint, working from top to bottom. Do not paint the valves, as this will make them harder to open them. Leave the paint to dry for at least 24 hours before turning your radiator back on.

Conservatory underfloor heating is usually installed in such a room to allow its use throughout the year, rather than just during the spring and summer months.

Underfloor heating is the most common alternative to the more conventional forms of heating such as radiator networks or wood, coal, gas or oil burners. In contrast to the latter, which provide convected heating, which rises quickly to the highest part of the internal space, underfloor heating is distributed more evenly and has a longer lasting effect. In the context of conservatories, underfloor heating is therefore one of the best ways in which to heat them, as convected heat will rise immediately to the relatively poorly insulated glass roof.

Conservatory underfloor heating can be either water or electric technology based. Although better in terms of heat retention than convected heating systems, conservatory heating systems do still have to be able to generate more heat than underfloor heating systems in other, better insulated, non-conservatory spaces.

One major benefit of underfloor heating in a conservatory, which is habitually of a relatively smaller size than other domestic spaces, is that space is saved by not installing radiators or other forms of convected heating system. Also, conservatories can be planned and executed as buildings with the planning for an underfloor heating system incorporated.

Both water and electric underfloor heating systems can be installed by a professional from an established underfloor heating systems company, or can also be fitted on a DIY basis. Underfloor heating kits are readily available in DIY stores or can be acquired online.

A garden gazebo can be a fantastic feature for any garden. Gazebos are used as a quick and easy way to keep people dry and warm in the face of our varying outdoor weather.  They also of course provide an ideal outside covered space for entertaining.

Garden gazebos are popular for their ease of use and how simple they are to erect. A gazebo purchase will not mean breaking the bank as many popular models are made of a simple support structure and inexpensive materials. However, higher quality gazebos will of course cost more, but they will last a lot longer and be a more permanent fixture in the garden.

The most common use for a garden gazebo, of any type, is to have somewhere to relax and be protected from the elements, be it rain or very hot sun.  Another popular use is to place one over a barbeque area during the summer.

There are many good reasons you should consider purchasing a garden gazebo. Gazebos have become much more popular over the last decade as a way of ensuring that any outdoor activity can be enjoyed whatever the weather.  The only real enemy of a gazebo is a very high wind, which can be problematic for any light outdoor structure.

Manufacturers produce a whole range of different sized gazebos and the materials used in construction vary in type and quality.  Have a good look around the various models before you make a purchase.

There are many showers on the market which can be purchased on a small budget, but there are many others which are at the more extravagant end of the spectrum. It is important to consider whether or not you are looking to purchase an electric shower or a power shower. These are known for their powerful jet systems. However, a standard electric shower is basically just a water heater. The electricity heats up cold water from the mains extremely quickly as it progresses towards the shower head. The force of the water will depend entirely upon the pressure within your water mains as electric showers do not use pumps. They are a rather economical means of washing though since you will only use up the water that you require. Also since they actually use cold water you can still be guaranteed a hot shower if your boiler breaks down.

The alternative is the power shower which is basically a mixer shower with connections to the hot and cold water supply mains. These showers actually use an electric pump which creates a stronger pressure as the water is released from the shower head. These are really popular due to the powerful sensation and extra-clean feeling they can often provide.

There are many brands of electric and power showers although two of the best known names are Triton and Mira. It is definitely worthwhile doing some research and shopping around before settling on your ideal shower.

When you are planning where your furniture will be placed in a room, the position of the windows and doors has to be taken into consideration. In homes with traditional central heating systems, you will also be restricted by where the radiators or storage heaters are positioned. If you position a wardrobe, sideboard or a TV stand in front of a radiator, you will risk heat damage to the furniture as well as reducing the radiator’s efficiency. However, with underfloor heating, you have much greater freedom with your room layouts, and you will gain more space because there are no visible heating devices, it’s all hidden.

Both electric and water underfloor heating systems have a set of controls to enable you to control the temperatures of each zone, and to allow easy maintenance. These are usually placed in a cupboard, often alongside the electricity fuse box.

In a modern home with sleek fitted units and uncluttered spaces, the aesthetic attractions of floor heating are undeniable. Another disadvantage with radiators is that they can spring a leak and spoil your expensive fitted carpets, and if you are installing under tile heating, you don’t have to cut tiles to fit around radiator pipes. Traditional heating works by creating draughts and when it circulates air through a room it takes dust with it. Underfloor heating, on the other hand, reduces the amount of dust, keeping rooms cleaner and creating better environments for people who suffer from dust related allergies.

Wooden gazebos can create a stunning centrepiece for any size of garden or outdoor area. As they are meant to be long lasting it is important that they are cared for properly in order to prevent wasted time and money.

Think carefully about where you will erect a wooden gazebo, because once the garden gazebo is up, it is unlikely you will be able to take it apart easily to move it somewhere else.

If you do not feel confident enough to tackle putting up a wooden gazebo by yourself, you can hire a contractor to do it for you – they should be able to inform you as to the best place to put it and how to maintain it properly. You may also be able to hire them to actually design the wooden gazebo from scratch, so you can have a unique and exciting feature for your outdoor area.

There are many different designs, styles, shapes and sizes available. There are also many different types of timber available to build your gazebo, which you pick may depend on your personal taste or what is available at the time of purchase.

Although a wooden gazebo takes a minimal amount of maintaining once it is built and treated, it may need small repairs or a re-coat of wood treatment as it gets older. As it is exposed to sustained and different weather conditions, it will need basic maintenance as time goes on.

A wooden gazebo is a great addition to any outdoor area and will transform the look of your garden or patio. 

Anyone who’s driven a nail into the wrong spot will know the panic that hitting a hidden pipe instils; bursting a water pipe isn’t fun. Prevention is the best policy, so always use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling. However, even experts in the building trade have been known to accidentally burst a pipe. Whatever you do, don’t panic, you won’t need emergency architects, if they exist or even a plumber. Repairing a leak can be a manageable DIY project if you know what to do.

First, chop away the plaster, if necessary, to expose the damaged portion of pipe. You’ll have to do a touch of painting, decorating and plastering after your plumbing work, of course. If you’re timid, use epoxy resin to mend the hole: you’ll need to clean the area to be fixed with emery cloth, all around the pipe’s diameter, to remove the oxide layer. Mix the two resin compounds together according to the manufacturer’s instructions, make sure you know the thickness needed to make the leak safe and wait until the resin is completely dried through before restoring the water supply.

A more permanent repair is to use a pipe-slice to cut the damaged section and solder ‘end-feed’ copper pipefittings in place, replacing the damaged section with a length of new copper pipe. The pipe has to be bone dry for the solder to take and you’ll need a blowtorch, emery cloth and flux, as well as solder, to do the job and a heat-retardant mat. Another, simpler, solution is to cut the damaged section out and replace with a compression joint.

The shower tray can come in a variety of materials, but more popular than most is the plastic shower tray. Lightweight ABS plastic shower trays tend to flex slightly during use so it’s particularly important to seal the edges carefully, using a good- quality silicone sealant (it is recommended by most experts not to rely on grout). The GRP shower tray is much more substantial, while the resin-bonded shower tray and the ceramic shower tray are also very solid.

The majority of shower trays that support the freestanding shower cubicle range between 750mm and 900mm squares. For those of you looking to save space in your bathroom, the shower tray can be purchased with a cut-off or rounded corner to save floor space. For bathrooms with more ample room for improvement, a larger more rectangular shower tray provides that extra elbow room within your chosen shower enclosure.

Most shower trays are designed to stand on a timber or masonry frame so that they lie about 150mm (6 inches) off the ground. Some have adjustable feet or a metal underframe that helps to provide a fall for the waste pipe. Rigid types of shower tray can be bedded in mortar. A plinth screwed across the front of the shower tray enables the underframe and the plumbing to be hidden from sight, as well as allowing access to the trap should servicing to the underframe or plumbing be required.

Some shower trays are also designed to be sunk, so that they are flush with the floor. This provides easier access to the shower itself and also allows for better cleaning and maintenance of the shower tray.

This does require a degree of skill, but if you never try new DIY projects you never get any new skills that can be used again in the future. Plastering a wall is as good a place as any to begin.

Pour water into multi-finish plaster, mixing in a bucket extremely thoroughly until you have a nice creamy sludge – no lumps and not too runny, please.

Next slap some of the plaster onto a flat platform called a hawk, tilt the hawk toward the plastering float and transfer a good blob of plaster onto the float (as you get more practised, you’ll be able to do this in a flicking motion).

Press the plaster onto the wall, holding the float at an angle of about 30 degrees. Make sweeping upward movements, narrowing the angle the float as you reach the top of the arc (but don’t flatten the float against the wall – it’ll just pull plaster away). Aim for a 2mm thick basecoat – and don’t worry at this stage about ridges and unevenness.

Wait between 15-20 minutes until the plaster has hardened slightly but still remains pliable. Use the clean hawk to smooth over the ridges and bumps, keeping the angle very shallow.

Wait a further 40 or so minutes, then start polishing: flick water onto the walls with a paintbrush and wet the cleaned float thoroughly, working in sweeping strokes.

Acquiring a skill like this not only adds to your painting and decorating repertoire, it can save you a lot of money, too.